Where east and west truly meet
Where spirituality and secularism intertwine, not combat
Where the feeling of safety is rivaled only by immaculate trains and pride in efficiency
Hong Kong was my home for four amazing months. It’s so hard to just scratch the surface of so many wonderful moments and adventures. After my temporary work assignment ended, it was bittersweet to leave a country I became so fond of and mostly because of the people I met. Chinese people have the reputation to westerners as being somewhat cold and decisive, not warm and inviting – I did not find this to ring at all true in Hong Kong.
The collectivistic culture of Hong Kong and in most eastern countries can be frustrating at times for a westerner. My natural American “individualistic” tendencies did start to surface at times when I wanted to address conflict head-on or communicate directly in a meeting, but you have to be conscious of these differences and build trust or you would never get work done or have honest, satisfying relationships. Decisions were made in hallway conversations and meetings were formalities. You never call out a superior in front of others and your goal should always be for the greater good, though not everyone’s agenda was this pure. My co-workers helped me understand the “whys” behind their consensus-style culture and I still have a greater appreciation for “saving face” and respect for authority. I did see incredible differences in preference of style between leaders of the older generation and the younger generation who tend to embrace a more western-style of leadership. But I tend to think some of both practices would make a more enjoyable work environment.
I of course adored the usual tourist hot spots, Soho, Lan Kwai Fong, Tsim Sha Shui, Victoria Peak, Mongkok and Temple Street. Taking in the sounds, lights, smells can be overstimulating to the senses, but never a dull moment. Haggling at the Ladies Market was one of my favorite, relaxing haunts. My ritual became hopping off at the Mongkok MTR station, grabbing a freshly made waffle with butter, peanut butter and sweetened condensed milk off of a street corner and going up and down the aisles looking for bargains on tchotchkes and knock-offs, frankly mostly because I love to haggle to a great deal – and the merchants expect you to. Truth be told it’s easier to rationalize your purchase when you convert HK to US dollars, but it’s a game for both of you as you know they’ll never go as low to not make money, and depending on just how bad or not-so-bad you want something is what you’ll pay. When the calculator came out and I’d hear “Lady, look, good price.” Game on.
People asked me, “what about personal space? Didn’t that bother you.” No more than queues at theme parks or crowds at concerts anywhere else. Americans interpret the lack of personal space as rude, but again, just cultural differences. I found it was just because there are so many people and everyone’s in a hurry, and frankly, I found myself joining in when I wanted to make sure I had a spot to stand on the train. How does this mentality differ from L.A. rush hour? Word to the wise, do not attempt to drive in Hong Kong. I sure didn’t because a cab was scary enough and why bother when their MTR (Mass Transit Rail) is so punctual, clean and easy to navigate. But the people were the best. Friendly, helpful and you always felt safe – day or night. In crowded street markets, of course watch out for pick pockets – be smart and watch your bag, zip your purse, the typical things you should do anywhere to avoid being a victim of theft and you won’t have a problem.
The entire city transformed to celebrate Chinese New Year. It is truly like Christmas is to westerners, when families gather and traditions ensue. One of my most memorable moments was at the annual Chinese New Year Flower market in Victoria Park. Several times throughout the evening you were literally a stuck sardine with nowhere to go. At one point, I just started laughing. We couldn’t move and it was so absurdly funny to me, I laughed out loud. a few people near me, actually started laughing too as if we all realized how ridiculous we must look. Some started to push one way, then the other, we all swayed together in our sardine can. Nobody was angry, it just was…what it was. I could hear “We are the World” in my head…
I realize unlike many countries, cities in Asia, Hong Kong is uniquely easy for native English speakers. So, yes, I was spoiled – only picking up a few words in the rather intimidating language of Cantonese. Most locals are trilingual, Cantonese, Mandarin and English. Why our school systems in the States can’t be better about developing multi-lingual citizens I’ll never understand.
Although a Christian by belief, I enjoy immensely learning about other religions and meeting people with differing belief systems. Although fundamentally eastern and western religions are different, the core of humanity is the same in that there is a God-shaped void in everyone, we all long for something bigger than us and a higher purpose. We have souls and that is what makes us unique.
I took in hours of just watching people pray in the temples, light incense and bring fruit as an offering to Buddha. In fact I visited many Buddhist temples in Hong Kong, Macau and the oldest one in Stanley (Hong Kong). Each temple unique with its own ornamentally-detailed architecture. There was beautiful reverence in the quiet behavior as you stroll their gardens. Very peaceful and uplifting. The Big Buddha was truly a cultural and spiritual experience. Although the “magic” of a seemingly simple life was spoiled a little when I spotted a monk on an iPhone. It was just too funny.
The friends I met while working there embraced me warmly, and I dearly miss each of them. Thank goodness for Facebook to stay in touch and continue to share our lives from many miles apart. They showed me the sights, taught me about the culture and introduced me to the most amazing local fare. Yes, even sea cucumber and pig parts. I can never eat Chinese food in the U.S. again. It’s NOT Chinese food. Real Chinese food is fresh, light, flavorful and not bogged down in oils and heavy syrups.
Hot pot was my favorite experiences in which you and a bunch of your closet family members or friends sit around a pot of boiling water and you place a variety of vegetables, noodles, starches, seafood, poultry, meat into the boiling water to cook the most delicious food. The water is seasoned with your choice of broth and at the end, what a broth is left! I enjoyed this for the food, but mainly the company and everyone encouraging everyone else to “try this” or “try that.”
I can honestly say my time in Hong Kong changed my life and my perspective forever. I still cherish every moment. I hope to return one day to visit my friends and once again savor the multi-sensory experience that is truly one of my favorite places in the world. I think even Duffy misses it…
Karlynn Holbrook 